• Honda C65 Rectifier

    Jon Pardue designed this Honda C65 rectifier for riders who wish to bolt on one last rectifier, then forget about it forever. If you ride one of these bikes like your life depends on it to stay running, then your spirit is captured in this rectifier. This rectifier is built to be water tight, corrosion proof, and nearly bullet proof. Its got the strongest, highest specifications parts I can locate. Low cost is not the object, highest quality is all that matters here. The wires exit the rectifier at 90 degrees to the bolt hole, just like the OEM Honda part. There are no wires to snag, become unplugged, hang down, dangle, corrode, loosen, weaken, lose grip, or short out on nearby metal components. Nowadays electrical parts have almost no warranty, no support, and no explanation. We take things differently. If you can break this, send it back with the story of how you did it, and it gets replaced. It may even make it to our “Hall of Blame” which is an almost empty place.
  • Jon Pardue designed this for riders who wish to bolt on one last rectifier, then forget about it forever. If you ride one of these bikes like your life depends on it to stay running, then your spirit is captured in this rectifier. This rectifier is built to be water tight, corrosion proof, and nearly bullet proof. Its got the strongest, highest specifications parts I can locate. Low cost is not the object, highest quality is all that matters here. The wires exit the rectifier at 90 degrees to the bolt hole, just like the OEM Honda part. There are no wires to snag, become unplugged, hang down, dangle, corrode, loosen, weaken, lose grip, or short out on nearby metal components. Nowadays electrical parts have almost no warranty, no support, and no explanation. We take things differently. If you can break this, send it back with the story of how you did it, and it gets replaced. It may even make it to our “Hall of Blame” which is an almost empty place.
  • About the Z50 and Z50a 6 Volt Headlight Voltage Regulator:  For some unknown reason, many Honda Z50’s and Z50a'sgenerate excess headlight Voltage. Some bikes did it brand new. Some develop the problem over time, and a few never do it.  The exact cause is a mystery but is definitely a dynamo stator problem.  The stator is a complex series of copper windings on a six-pole laminated steel core, similar to an alternator. After unwinding and investigating several stators, it appears the insulation deep in the copper windings changes, making connections Honda never intended .  Result, too much headlight Voltage.  Good news, stators rarely fail to produce enough power, or outright fail. After years of working with these problems, we designed a special Voltage regulator to control the excess Volts and help prevent headlight bulb failures.  The device is ruggedized, waterproof, and plugs in to the stock Honda wiring without any modifications.  Installation is simple.  Wires and connectors are color matched.  The regulator plugs in without modifications to your Honda’s wiring harness, and fits inside the headlight bucket.

    Protect your new regulator and save money on shipping by including a new rectifier.

    We also make the 2 wire rectifier for the Honda Z50 and Z50A which can be found Here!

  • About the CT70 6 Volt Headlight Voltage Regulator:  For some unknown reason, many Honda CT70’s generate excess headlight Voltage. Some bikes did it brand new. Some develop the problem over time, and a few never do it.  The exact cause is a mystery but is definitely a dynamo stator problem.  The stator is a complex series of copper windings on a six-pole laminated steel core, similar to an alternator. After unwinding and investigating several stators, it appears the insulation deep in the copper windings changes, making connections Honda never intended .  Result, too much headlight Voltage.  Good news, stators rarely fail to produce enough power, or outright fail. After years of working with these problems, we designed a special Voltage regulator to control the excess Volts and help prevent headlight bulb failures.  The device is ruggedized, waterproof, and plugs in to the stock Honda wiring without any modifications.  Installation is simple.  Wires and connectors are color matched.  The regulator plugs in without modifications to your Honda’s wiring harness, and fits inside the headlight bucket.

    Protect your investment, and save on shipping: Order our “Fearsome Extreme” rectifier with the headlight Voltage regulator at no added shipping cost

  • Honda built the Cub without a Voltage regulator, instead relying on the electrical load of battery and lights to limit Voltage.  If for any reason the battery is not viable or missing, lighting Voltage will skyrocket.  Bulbs blow, especially the expensive headlight bulb.  Once one bulb blows, the rest will blow in rapid succession. For some unknown reason, with age some Hondas begin producing excess headlight Voltage. Its a mystery why, even after unwinding several stators.  This happens on bikes that have been just fine. Even with a viable battery and all bulbs intact, the Voltage is suddenly too high. After years of working with these problems, Jon designed a special Voltage regulator to control the excess Volts and prevent headlight and bulb failures.  The device is ruggedized, waterproof, and plugs in. Installation is simple.  Wires and connectors are color matched.  The regulator plugs in without modifications to your Honda’s wiring harness, and fits under the handlebar cover. July 12, 2014: Eagle-Eyed customer Wayne caught a ground wire error in the instructions… thanks! The 6 Volt Cub/Passport headlight is powered directly from the engine stator with AC power. The Pardue Brothers have designed and tested this device to destruction, and it has earned our seal of approval.  We hope it rates as a quality item that Soichiro Honda would have approved of. While the device is simple to install, we recognize that not everyone has extensive wiring experience. The instructions will guide you step by step thru the simple installation inside the handlebar cover. PDF Installation Instructions with Photos
  • About the CT110 6 Volt Headlight Voltage Regulator:  For some unknown reason, many Honda CT110's generate excess headlight Voltage. Some bikes did it brand new. Some develop the problem over time, and a few never do it.  The exact cause is a mystery but is definitely a dynamo stator problem.  The stator is a complex series of copper windings on a six-pole laminated steel core, similar to an alternator. After unwinding and investigating several stators, it appears the insulation deep in the copper windings changes, making connections Honda never intended .  Result, too much headlight Voltage.  Good news, stators rarely fail to produce enough power, or outright fail. After years of working with these problems, we designed a special Voltage regulator to control the excess Volts and help prevent headlight bulb failures.  The device is ruggedized, waterproof, and plugs in to the stock Honda wiring without any modifications.  Installation is simple.  Wires and connectors are color matched.  The regulator plugs in without modifications to your Honda's wiring harness, and fits inside the headlight bucket.

    Protect your investment, and save on shipping: Order our "Fearsome Extreme" rectifier with the headlight Voltage regulator at no added shipping cost (replaces 4-wire, in-the-frame rectifier with 4 separate connectors ONLY)

  • 2 Terminal Plug Rectifier Half wave 2 plug rectifier
    This style of rectifier fits a few bikes with points ignition: 1980 and 1981 Honda C70 Cub/Passport 1980 and 1981 CT110 Trail CT70 from the K3 to the 1979 model XL125 These small rectifiers plug in.  No wire connectors are involved, and no tools are needed to remove and replace the part. Located under the sidecover near the battery, the lightweight plastic rectifier may last some years.  These are half-wave rectifiers.  Want to see how it works?  Visit our fully illustrated and animated show:  https://parduebrothers.com/diode The original Honda rectifier was rated for 3 Amps of current.  It is passing 2+ Amps of current most of the time, yet the bike can generate more power than the rectifier can pass.  The Honda rectifier is just barely adequate, engineered and built at the lowest possible cost. Rectifier technology has radically improved. Today a sightly larger device can pass 4 or 5 times the power, yet absorb less of the bike's power.  Technically its overkill to use a 16 Amp rectifier to do the job of a 4 Amp part, but the cost and size is barely different.  Its cheap insurance to go heavy duty.  Dependable peace of mind while virtually eliminating future rectifier problems is the goal.  Passing more power to the battery and lights is a safety issue for many, including me that designed it!  The modern rectifier delivers. Another rectifier rating is reverse Voltage.  Think of it as a pressure rating for garden hose.  The original rectifier had a 50 Volt inverse rating, yet these bikes make brief 200 to 300 Volt spikes.  The modern rectifier can be rated for 1,000 Volts or more. A rectifier is an automatic valve, quickly switching electrical power flowing back-and-forth, to flowing in one direction.  The valve uses electrical power to work, making heat in the process.  Modern rectifiers are far more efficient.  Bottom line, a little more Voltage is delivered to the lights and battery at all engines speeds. Pulsing, alternating electricity is generated as the engine runs.  This AC power is great for light bulbs,  but bad for charging a battery.  The rectifier serves as a one-way valve to make the battery happy.  The battery is a chemical processor pushing electrons one way through it. Our Fearsome Extreme half wave rectifier plugs in.  It is a little larger due to the heavier duty components inside, but does not interfere with anything.  It is rated to pass 16 Amps at 800 Volts.  Your bike needs to pass 3 or 4 Amps at 8 Volts.   This is meant to be the last rectifier your bike will need.  Its not built of the lowest cost parts, just the best parts.
  • 2 Terminal Plug Rectifier Half wave 2 plug rectifier
    This style of rectifier fits a few bikes with points ignition: 1980 and 1981 Honda C70 Cub/Passport 1980 and 1981 CT110 Trail CT70 from the K3 to the 1979 model XL125 These small rectifiers plug in.  No wire connectors are involved, and no tools are needed to remove and replace the part. Located under the sidecover near the battery, the lightweight plastic rectifier may last some years.  These are half-wave rectifiers.  Want to see how it works?  Visit our fully illustrated and animated show:  https://parduebrothers.com/diode The original Honda rectifier was rated for 3 Amps of current.  It is passing 2+ Amps of current most of the time, yet the bike can generate more power than the rectifier can pass.  The Honda rectifier is just barely adequate, engineered and built at the lowest possible cost. Rectifier technology has radically improved. Today a sightly larger device can pass 4 or 5 times the power, yet absorb less of the bike's power.  Technically its overkill to use a 16 Amp rectifier to do the job of a 4 Amp part, but the cost and size is barely different.  Its cheap insurance to go heavy duty.  Dependable peace of mind while virtually eliminating future rectifier problems is the goal.  Passing more power to the battery and lights is a safety issue for many, including me that designed it!  The modern rectifier delivers. Another rectifier rating is reverse Voltage.  Think of it as a pressure rating for garden hose.  The original rectifier had a 50 Volt inverse rating, yet these bikes make brief 200 to 300 Volt spikes.  The modern rectifier can be rated for 1,000 Volts or more. A rectifier is an automatic valve, quickly switching electrical power flowing back-and-forth, to flowing in one direction.  The valve uses electrical power to work, making heat in the process.  Modern rectifiers are far more efficient.  Bottom line, a little more Voltage is delivered to the lights and battery at all engines speeds. Pulsing, alternating electricity is generated as the engine runs.  This AC power is great for light bulbs,  but bad for charging a battery.  The rectifier serves as a one-way valve to make the battery happy.  The battery is a chemical processor pushing electrons one way through it. Our Fearsome Extreme half wave rectifier plugs in.  It is a little larger due to the heavier duty components inside, but does not interfere with anything.  It is rated to pass 16 Amps at 800 Volts.  Your bike needs to pass 3 or 4 Amps at 8 Volts.   This is meant to be the last rectifier your bike will need.  Its not built of the lowest cost parts, just the best parts.
  • 2 Terminal Plug Rectifier Half wave 2 plug rectifier
    This style of rectifier fits a few bikes with points ignition: 1980 and 1981 Honda C70 Cub/Passport 1980 and 1981 CT110 Trail CT70 from the K3 to the 1979 model XL125 These small rectifiers plug in.  No wire connectors are involved, and no tools are needed to remove and replace the part. Located under the sidecover near the battery, the lightweight plastic rectifier may last some years.  These are half-wave rectifiers.  Want to see how it works?  Visit our fully illustrated and animated show:  https://parduebrothers.com/diode The original Honda rectifier was rated for 3 Amps of current.  It is passing 2+ Amps of current most of the time, yet the bike can generate more power than the rectifier can pass.  The Honda rectifier is just barely adequate, engineered and built at the lowest possible cost. Rectifier technology has radically improved. Today a sightly larger device can pass 4 or 5 times the power, yet absorb less of the bike's power.  Technically its overkill to use a 16 Amp rectifier to do the job of a 4 Amp part, but the cost and size is barely different.  Its cheap insurance to go heavy duty.  Dependable peace of mind while virtually eliminating future rectifier problems is the goal.  Passing more power to the battery and lights is a safety issue for many, including me that designed it!  The modern rectifier delivers. Another rectifier rating is reverse Voltage.  Think of it as a pressure rating for garden hose.  The original rectifier had a 50 Volt inverse rating, yet these bikes make brief 200 to 300 Volt spikes.  The modern rectifier can be rated for 1,000 Volts or more. A rectifier is an automatic valve, quickly switching electrical power flowing back-and-forth, to flowing in one direction.  The valve uses electrical power to work, making heat in the process.  Modern rectifiers are far more efficient.  Bottom line, a little more Voltage is delivered to the lights and battery at all engines speeds. Pulsing, alternating electricity is generated as the engine runs.  This AC power is great for light bulbs,  but bad for charging a battery.  The rectifier serves as a one-way valve to make the battery happy.  The battery is a chemical processor pushing electrons one way through it. Our Fearsome Extreme half wave rectifier plugs in.  It is a little larger due to the heavier duty components inside, but does not interfere with anything.  It is rated to pass 16 Amps at 800 Volts.  Your bike needs to pass 3 or 4 Amps at 8 Volts.   This is meant to be the last rectifier your bike will need.  Its not built of the lowest cost parts, just the best parts.
  • 2 wire Fearsome Extreme Rectifier for bikes with 1/2 wave stator We also sell the regulator for these bikes here.
  • 2 Terminal Plug Rectifier Half wave 2 plug rectifier
    CT70 from the K3 to the 1979 model have. These small rectifiers plug in.  No wire connectors are involved, and no tools are needed to exchange it. Located under the sidecover near the battery, the lightweight plastic rectifier may last some years.  These are half-wave rectifiers.  Want to see how it works?  Visit our fully illustrated and animated show:  https://parduebrothers.com/diode The Honda rectifier was rated for 3 Amps of current.  Its passing 2+ Amps of current most of the time, yet the bike wants more than 3 at times.  Amps is similar to flow in a garden hose.  The bike can make more the rectifier can pass, and demand more than the rectifier can deliver.  The rectifier was built at the lowest possible cost. Rectifier technology has radically improved. A sightly larger device can pass 20 Amps.  Overkill?  Sure, but its cheap insurance.  Dependable peace of mind while virtually eliminating future rectifier problems is the goal.  Passing more power to the battery and lights is a safety issue for many, and a fully modern rectifier can do just that. Another rectifier rating is reverse Voltage.  Think of it as a pressure rating for garden hose.  The original rectifier had a 50 Volt inverse rating, yet these bikes make brief 200 to 300 Volt spikes.  The modern rectifier can be rated for 1,000 Volts or more. A rectifier is an automatic valve, quickly switching electrical power flowing back-and-forth, to flowing in one direction. The running engine spins magnets that generate back-and-forth power. Its great for bulbs, but not good for charging batteries. The battery needs power flowing in one direction (direct current or DC).  The back-and-forth alternating current (AC) flowing from the engine will harm the battery.  Enter the rectifier, which silently works tens of thousands of times per minute to Our Fearsome Extreme half wave rectifier plugs in.  It is a little larger due to the heavier duty components inside, but does not interfere with anything.  It will pass 20 Amps at 800 Volts, so its meant to be the last rectifier your bike will need.  Its not built of the lowest cost parts, just the best ones.
  • Kill switch problems occur when installing a 12 Volt “clone” engine into a Honda CT90, S90 or any other bike that originally had DC – powered ignition. Source of the Problem: Battery power from the kill switch in the RUN position. Your new clone engine has a CDI ignition system, incompatible with the old battery-powered ignition. WARNING! Do not connect the stock CT90 Black/White kill switch wire to the clone CDI Black/White wire! This will destroy the CDI module. SHOP NOTE: Even if you rewire the power input side of the kill switch to ground, then connect to the clone CDI module, the kill switch function is reversed (Run = Kill Engine) This can be confusing and dangerous, plus ANYONE can start your bike. Don’t do it! Solution: The Pardue Brothers 12VDCIR-MKS Kill Switch Adapter. The Pardue Brothers 12VDCIR-MKS reverses the CT90 battery kill switch circuit. This is the proper, safe way to install a clone engine with CDI, into your bike with battery=powered ignition. The device fits into the headlight bucket. It is engineered to last a lifetime with matching Honda connectors and color-coded wires. Every one is hand-assembled and tested in our Florida shops. Installation is easy, just make three plug-in connections, and you are ready to ride.

  • MKS-DCIR Kill Switch Reverser adapts CT110 handlebar control to CT90 Either your bike blows fuses, or if you connect the switch ground to power, the kills switch function is inverted. The Pardue Brothers MKS-DCIR kill switch adapter reverses the CT110 “ground-to-kill” circuit. This is the proper, safe fix for 6 Volt CT90’s. The adapter is simple to install in the headlight bucket. No modifications to the wiring or switch are needed. It’s ready to plug-in-and-ride with three color-matched wires and matching connectors.
  • Sale!
    CT70 Wiring Diagram Doc CT70 Clone Lifan with electric starter
    CT70 U.S.A. Wiring Diagram including Combination Switch Modes CT70 Charging System Mods: Dual 1/2 Wave Rectifiers and Full Wave Rectifier CT70 Combination Switch: All 3 Modes Illustrated CT70 with clone Engine Power, CDI ignition and 12 Volt Conversion CT70 with clone Engine Power, CDI ignition, 12 Volt Conversion and Electric Start Jon's Full Color PDF wiring diagram files let you zoom in to see razor sharp details. No need to endure squinting at a fuzzy black and white diagram from a manual.  These are not printed documents.  You receive personalized PDF files via email. You may print these for your own use, or view on your devices that display PDF files.  The best software for viewing is Adobe Reader (free from adobe com) because it holds sharp focus when you zoom in.
  • CT70 with Piranha 140 Color Wiring Diagram CT70 with Piranha 140 Color Wiring Diagram
    The PDF wiring diagram file lets you zoom in to see razor sharp details. No need to endure squinting at a fuzzy black and white diagram from a manual.  This is not a printed document.  You receive the personalized PDF file via email. You may print it for your own use, or view on your devices that display PDF files.  The best software for viewing is Adobe Reader (free from adobe com) because it holds sharp focus when you zoom in. This set of 4 wiring diagrams includes Jon's full color vector art CT70 K7 wiring diagram, CT70 engine and ignition unplugged,   modified TBoltUSA Piranha 140 full wiring kit,  then plugged into the CT70 wiring harness.  Every page is personalized, illustrated and verified.  These are not the hard-to-understand factory diagrams, these are new and awesome quality PDF's. In return we ask you to be an Information Hero: refer people here instead of copying Jon's files and reposting them on another site.  Why? People get the latest version here, knowledge is always being added to.  Besides, its a lot of work to draw this stuff and folks deserve an original work of art.  Its also nice to pay the person that knows how this stuff works.  Tips accepted!
  • 1154 LED  6 Volt tail/stop bulb with Red LED's.
  • Jon's complete full color wiring diagram for the Honda Ct90 from 1977-on. All systems included lighting, ignition, charging, Fuse and Battery. This is really a must have item for anyone restoring or repair one of these fabulous bikes. PDF Format, 6 pages, Full Color, High Resolution,  Zoomable and scalable
  • The PDF wiring diagram file lets you zoom in to see razor sharp details. No need to endure squinting at a fuzzy black and white diagram from a manual.  This is not a printed document.  You receive the personalized PDF file via email. You may print it for your own use, or view on your devices that display PDF files.  The best software for viewing is Adobe Reader (free from adobe com) because it holds sharp focus when you zoom in. One of these durable bikes motivated us to share knowledge online in 2001. Below are a few links to files created over the years.  In return we ask you to be an Information Hero: refer people here instead of copying the files and reposting them on another site.  Why? People get the latest version here, knowledge is always being added to.  Besides, its a lot of work to draw this stuff and folks deserve an original work of art.
  • This is Jon's Honda CT70 Lifan & Clone Wiring Diagram w/Electric Starter Full color PDF by Jon Pardue / Pardue Brothers 2 pgs

Headlight Socket Modification

Dr ATV Headlight Socket Mod