• WHOLE 9 YARDS HOW TO LED YOUR 6 VOLT HONDA KIT
  • WHOLE 9 YARDS HOW TO LED YOUR CT90 KIT
  • HOW TO LED YOUR CT90 KIT
  • HOW TO LED YOUR 6 VOLT HONDA KIT
  • DASHERINO HAZBEEP for passing Australian Rego and adding 4 way flashers.  Plug-in-and-ride indicator lamp converter for LED turn signal conversions with beeper and 4-way hazard flasher terminals.  No alterations to factory wiring, unplugs any time.  Sealed device fits in the headlight bucket.  Color-matched wires and terminals fit your Honda. Plug In and Ride installation requires no modifications to the stock wiring. Removeable.
  • BA7S LED 6 Volt neutral lamp with Green light output.  Replaces all years of the the Honda CT90 neutral lamp. Smaller than the BA9S speedometer lamp.
  • BA9S LED 6 Volt speedometer lamp
  • 1154 LED  6 Volt tail/stop bulb with Red LED's.
  • CT70 with Piranha 140 Color Wiring Diagram CT70 with Piranha 140 Color Wiring Diagram
    The PDF wiring diagram file lets you zoom in to see razor sharp details. No need to endure squinting at a fuzzy black and white diagram from a manual.  This is not a printed document.  You receive the personalized PDF file via email. You may print it for your own use, or view on your devices that display PDF files.  The best software for viewing is Adobe Reader (free from adobe com) because it holds sharp focus when you zoom in. This set of 4 wiring diagrams includes Jon's full color vector art CT70 K7 wiring diagram, CT70 engine and ignition unplugged,   modified TBoltUSA Piranha 140 full wiring kit,  then plugged into the CT70 wiring harness.  Every page is personalized, illustrated and verified.  These are not the hard-to-understand factory diagrams, these are new and awesome quality PDF's. In return we ask you to be an Information Hero: refer people here instead of copying Jon's files and reposting them on another site.  Why? People get the latest version here, knowledge is always being added to.  Besides, its a lot of work to draw this stuff and folks deserve an original work of art.  Its also nice to pay the person that knows how this stuff works.  Tips accepted!
  • 2 Terminal Plug Rectifier Half wave 2 plug rectifier
    This style of rectifier fits a few bikes with points ignition: 1980 and 1981 Honda C70 Cub/Passport 1980 and 1981 CT110 Trail CT70 from the K3 to the 1979 model XL125 These small rectifiers plug in.  No wire connectors are involved, and no tools are needed to remove and replace the part. Located under the sidecover near the battery, the lightweight plastic rectifier may last some years.  These are half-wave rectifiers.  Want to see how it works?  Visit our fully illustrated and animated show:  https://parduebrothers.com/diode The original Honda rectifier was rated for 3 Amps of current.  It is passing 2+ Amps of current most of the time, yet the bike can generate more power than the rectifier can pass.  The Honda rectifier is just barely adequate, engineered and built at the lowest possible cost. Rectifier technology has radically improved. Today a sightly larger device can pass 4 or 5 times the power, yet absorb less of the bike's power.  Technically its overkill to use a 16 Amp rectifier to do the job of a 4 Amp part, but the cost and size is barely different.  Its cheap insurance to go heavy duty.  Dependable peace of mind while virtually eliminating future rectifier problems is the goal.  Passing more power to the battery and lights is a safety issue for many, including me that designed it!  The modern rectifier delivers. Another rectifier rating is reverse Voltage.  Think of it as a pressure rating for garden hose.  The original rectifier had a 50 Volt inverse rating, yet these bikes make brief 200 to 300 Volt spikes.  The modern rectifier can be rated for 1,000 Volts or more. A rectifier is an automatic valve, quickly switching electrical power flowing back-and-forth, to flowing in one direction.  The valve uses electrical power to work, making heat in the process.  Modern rectifiers are far more efficient.  Bottom line, a little more Voltage is delivered to the lights and battery at all engines speeds. Pulsing, alternating electricity is generated as the engine runs.  This AC power is great for light bulbs,  but bad for charging a battery.  The rectifier serves as a one-way valve to make the battery happy.  The battery is a chemical processor pushing electrons one way through it. Our Fearsome Extreme half wave rectifier plugs in.  It is a little larger due to the heavier duty components inside, but does not interfere with anything.  It is rated to pass 16 Amps at 800 Volts.  Your bike needs to pass 3 or 4 Amps at 8 Volts.   This is meant to be the last rectifier your bike will need.  Its not built of the lowest cost parts, just the best parts.
  • 2 Terminal Plug Rectifier Half wave 2 plug rectifier
    This style of rectifier fits a few bikes with points ignition: 1980 and 1981 Honda C70 Cub/Passport 1980 and 1981 CT110 Trail CT70 from the K3 to the 1979 model XL125 These small rectifiers plug in.  No wire connectors are involved, and no tools are needed to remove and replace the part. Located under the sidecover near the battery, the lightweight plastic rectifier may last some years.  These are half-wave rectifiers.  Want to see how it works?  Visit our fully illustrated and animated show:  https://parduebrothers.com/diode The original Honda rectifier was rated for 3 Amps of current.  It is passing 2+ Amps of current most of the time, yet the bike can generate more power than the rectifier can pass.  The Honda rectifier is just barely adequate, engineered and built at the lowest possible cost. Rectifier technology has radically improved. Today a sightly larger device can pass 4 or 5 times the power, yet absorb less of the bike's power.  Technically its overkill to use a 16 Amp rectifier to do the job of a 4 Amp part, but the cost and size is barely different.  Its cheap insurance to go heavy duty.  Dependable peace of mind while virtually eliminating future rectifier problems is the goal.  Passing more power to the battery and lights is a safety issue for many, including me that designed it!  The modern rectifier delivers. Another rectifier rating is reverse Voltage.  Think of it as a pressure rating for garden hose.  The original rectifier had a 50 Volt inverse rating, yet these bikes make brief 200 to 300 Volt spikes.  The modern rectifier can be rated for 1,000 Volts or more. A rectifier is an automatic valve, quickly switching electrical power flowing back-and-forth, to flowing in one direction.  The valve uses electrical power to work, making heat in the process.  Modern rectifiers are far more efficient.  Bottom line, a little more Voltage is delivered to the lights and battery at all engines speeds. Pulsing, alternating electricity is generated as the engine runs.  This AC power is great for light bulbs,  but bad for charging a battery.  The rectifier serves as a one-way valve to make the battery happy.  The battery is a chemical processor pushing electrons one way through it. Our Fearsome Extreme half wave rectifier plugs in.  It is a little larger due to the heavier duty components inside, but does not interfere with anything.  It is rated to pass 16 Amps at 800 Volts.  Your bike needs to pass 3 or 4 Amps at 8 Volts.   This is meant to be the last rectifier your bike will need.  Its not built of the lowest cost parts, just the best parts.
  • STARTERINO electric start booster for Honda C70 6 Volt bikes.  Plug-in-and-ride solution installs with a bolt and 4 color-matched connectors.  Nothing to build and no modifications to the bike.  Installs with a 10mm wrench in a few minutes.  LED status lights for troubleshooting and verification it works. Years in the making and testing, designed, assembled and tested by Jon Pardue in the USA for the 6 Volt C70 Honda Cub & Passport.  Other bikes and fitment, inquire. Just.  Make.  It.  Start.   STARTERINO!  
  • Honda CB125s Rectifier
    Female Plastic Connector with Male Terminals Jon Pardue designed this for riders who wish to bolt on one last rectifier, then forget about it forever. If you ride one of these bikes like your life depends on it to stay running, then your spirit is captured in this rectifier. This rectifier is built to be water tight, corrosion proof, and nearly bullet proof. Its got the strongest, highest specifications parts I can locate. Low cost is not the object, highest quality is all that matters here. The wires exit the rectifier at 90 degrees to the bolt hole, just like the OEM Honda part. There are no wires to snag, become unplugged, hang down, dangle, corrode, loosen, weaken, lose grip, or short out on nearby metal components. Nowadays electrical parts have almost no warranty, no support, and no explanation. We take things differently. If you can break this, send it back with the story of how you did it, and it gets replaced. It may even make it to our “Hall of Blame” which is an almost empty place.
  • The PDF wiring diagram file lets you zoom in to see razor sharp details. No need to endure squinting at a fuzzy black and white diagram from a manual.  This is not a printed document.  You receive the personalized PDF file via email. You may print it for your own use, or view on your devices that display PDF files.  The best software for viewing is Adobe Reader (free from adobe com) because it holds sharp focus when you zoom in. One of these durable bikes motivated us to share knowledge online in 2001. Below are a few links to files created over the years.  In return we ask you to be an Information Hero: refer people here instead of copying the files and reposting them on another site.  Why? People get the latest version here, knowledge is always being added to.  Besides, its a lot of work to draw this stuff and folks deserve an original work of art.
  • Honda C65 Rectifier

    Jon Pardue designed this Honda C65 rectifier for riders who wish to bolt on one last rectifier, then forget about it forever. If you ride one of these bikes like your life depends on it to stay running, then your spirit is captured in this rectifier. This rectifier is built to be water tight, corrosion proof, and nearly bullet proof. Its got the strongest, highest specifications parts I can locate. Low cost is not the object, highest quality is all that matters here. The wires exit the rectifier at 90 degrees to the bolt hole, just like the OEM Honda part. There are no wires to snag, become unplugged, hang down, dangle, corrode, loosen, weaken, lose grip, or short out on nearby metal components. Nowadays electrical parts have almost no warranty, no support, and no explanation. We take things differently. If you can break this, send it back with the story of how you did it, and it gets replaced. It may even make it to our “Hall of Blame” which is an almost empty place.
  • 2 Terminal Plug Rectifier Half wave 2 plug rectifier
    This style of rectifier fits a few bikes with points ignition: 1980 and 1981 Honda C70 Cub/Passport 1980 and 1981 CT110 Trail CT70 from the K3 to the 1979 model XL125 These small rectifiers plug in.  No wire connectors are involved, and no tools are needed to remove and replace the part. Located under the sidecover near the battery, the lightweight plastic rectifier may last some years.  These are half-wave rectifiers.  Want to see how it works?  Visit our fully illustrated and animated show:  https://parduebrothers.com/diode The original Honda rectifier was rated for 3 Amps of current.  It is passing 2+ Amps of current most of the time, yet the bike can generate more power than the rectifier can pass.  The Honda rectifier is just barely adequate, engineered and built at the lowest possible cost. Rectifier technology has radically improved. Today a sightly larger device can pass 4 or 5 times the power, yet absorb less of the bike's power.  Technically its overkill to use a 16 Amp rectifier to do the job of a 4 Amp part, but the cost and size is barely different.  Its cheap insurance to go heavy duty.  Dependable peace of mind while virtually eliminating future rectifier problems is the goal.  Passing more power to the battery and lights is a safety issue for many, including me that designed it!  The modern rectifier delivers. Another rectifier rating is reverse Voltage.  Think of it as a pressure rating for garden hose.  The original rectifier had a 50 Volt inverse rating, yet these bikes make brief 200 to 300 Volt spikes.  The modern rectifier can be rated for 1,000 Volts or more. A rectifier is an automatic valve, quickly switching electrical power flowing back-and-forth, to flowing in one direction.  The valve uses electrical power to work, making heat in the process.  Modern rectifiers are far more efficient.  Bottom line, a little more Voltage is delivered to the lights and battery at all engines speeds. Pulsing, alternating electricity is generated as the engine runs.  This AC power is great for light bulbs,  but bad for charging a battery.  The rectifier serves as a one-way valve to make the battery happy.  The battery is a chemical processor pushing electrons one way through it. Our Fearsome Extreme half wave rectifier plugs in.  It is a little larger due to the heavier duty components inside, but does not interfere with anything.  It is rated to pass 16 Amps at 800 Volts.  Your bike needs to pass 3 or 4 Amps at 8 Volts.   This is meant to be the last rectifier your bike will need.  Its not built of the lowest cost parts, just the best parts.
  • Honda CB125s Rectifier
    Female Plastic Connector with Male Terminals Jon Pardue designed this for riders who wish to bolt on one last rectifier, then forget about it forever. If you ride one of these bikes like your life depends on it to stay running, then your spirit is captured in this rectifier. This rectifier is built to be water tight, corrosion proof, and nearly bullet proof. Its got the strongest, highest specifications parts I can locate. Low cost is not the object, highest quality is all that matters here. The wires exit the rectifier at 90 degrees to the bolt hole, just like the OEM Honda part. There are no wires to snag, become unplugged, hang down, dangle, corrode, loosen, weaken, lose grip, or short out on nearby metal components. Nowadays electrical parts have almost no warranty, no support, and no explanation. We take things differently. If you can break this, send it back with the story of how you did it, and it gets replaced. It may even make it to our “Hall of Blame” which is an almost empty place.
  • If you have ever tried to follow the difficult to see and understand the Honda Manual to test your Honda  5 pin CDI, this is a must have document to make all the confusion disappear.  Jon has taken the manual and fully illustrated every step and interpreted the truth tables to make this task much simpler. As usual, this document is in high resolution PDF and can be zoomed in closer to see the tiny little details you can barely see in the manual. Color Illustrations, High Res, 25 pg PDF
  • Kill switch problems occur when installing a 12 Volt “clone” engine into a Honda CT90, S90 or any other bike that originally had DC – powered ignition. Source of the Problem: Battery power from the kill switch in the RUN position. Your new clone engine has a CDI ignition system, incompatible with the old battery-powered ignition. WARNING! Do not connect the stock CT90 Black/White kill switch wire to the clone CDI Black/White wire! This will destroy the CDI module. SHOP NOTE: Even if you rewire the power input side of the kill switch to ground, then connect to the clone CDI module, the kill switch function is reversed (Run = Kill Engine) This can be confusing and dangerous, plus ANYONE can start your bike. Don’t do it! Solution: The Pardue Brothers 12VDCIR-MKS Kill Switch Adapter. The Pardue Brothers 12VDCIR-MKS reverses the CT90 battery kill switch circuit. This is the proper, safe way to install a clone engine with CDI, into your bike with battery=powered ignition. The device fits into the headlight bucket. It is engineered to last a lifetime with matching Honda connectors and color-coded wires. Every one is hand-assembled and tested in our Florida shops. Installation is easy, just make three plug-in connections, and you are ready to ride.

Headlight Socket Modification

Dr ATV Headlight Socket Mod